Why Is Eri Silk So Expensive? Unveiling Its Unique Value

Eri silk, also known as Endi or Errandi silk, is valued for its natural golden color, unusual texture, comfort, and sustainability.

It’s incredibly soft and warm, almost cashmere-like, yet light and airy at the same time.

The fabric drapes beautifully and has a subtle natural sheen rather than a high gloss like other silks.

No wonder it’s become a favorite for high-end fashion designers and mills that produce fine fabrics!

My goal with this article is to take you through an in-depth exploration of eri silk – from its unique properties to the ethical production process to real-world benefits – shedding light on why it commands premium pricing.

The Unique Qualities of Eri Silk

A Distinctive Appearance and Texture

• Eri silk has a distinctive texture that is both soft and textured – often described as feeling like cashmere or wool but with the lightweight drape of silk.
• It has a matte finish and a natural golden tint unlike the brighter white tones of other silks.
• The fabric is breathable and insulating, perfect for cozy scarves and blankets as well as flowing dresses and blouses.

For example, eri silk would make an ultra-soft scarf to keep you warm in winter without bulk. 

Or it can be used to make a lightweight tunic that still feels luxuriously soft against the skin in summer.

Discovering the appearance of eri silk answered my questions about its shine.

Eco-Friendly and Sustainable

• Eri silkworms feed on castor plants, which are abundant in nature and easy to cultivate organically.
• Producing eri silk has a much lower environmental impact compared to other silk varieties or synthetics.
• The production process allows the silkworms to live out their natural life cycle and metamorphose into moths.

In contrast, other commercial silk production often involves killing the pupae by boiling, baking, or piercing to extract longer strands of silk filament.

Extremely Durable and Versatile

• Eri silk fabric is known for its exceptional durability despite being lightweight.
• It is resistant to sun damage, sweat, and oils while maintaining its softness and insulation.
• This versatility lends itself beautifully to a wide range of clothing items like dresses, scarves, saris, suits, and even quilts and duvets.

For instance, an eri silk sari can last for decades if cared for properly, much longer than cheaper synthetic saris. The fabric does not degrade easily over time or with use.

The Intricate Production Process

Producing eri silk is an intricate, labor-intensive process that adds to its value.

The Eri Silkworm

• Eri silkworms, scientifically called Samia ricini, are raised on castor leaves (rather than mulberry)
• They are hardy and grow relatively fast in comparison to other silk worms
• The eri cocoon is made of short and coarse silk filaments that do not reel well, unlike the long fine strands of mulberry silk

Ethical Practices

• Eri worms are allowed to develop fully into pupae and metamorphose into moths at the end of their natural life cycle rather than being killed prematurely
• This ethical stand aligns with the principles of non-violence and sustainability in production
• Workers involved in eri silk production are paid fair living wages rather than exploited

If you’re curious about the ethical production of eri silk, here’s what I discovered.

Extreme Labor Intensity

• Rearing eri worms and processing cocoons into silk yarn requires extensive manual labor, specialized skills, and personal oversight at multiple steps
• Degumming, cleaning, spinning, dyeing, and weaving – every stage needs human effort rather than automation
• For example, a sari requires the silk of over 3000 cocoons and takes 15-20 days to hand weave!

Here is a comparison of the key steps in producing eri silk fabric vs mulberry silk fabric:

As you can see, producing eri silk depends heavily on artisanal skills and manual techniques rather than industrialized machinery.

This is a proud part of preserving its heritage and quality, but also drives up the labor costs substantially.

Sustainability and Ethical Production

Beyond just being organic and natural, eri silk exemplifies sustainable production practices and ethical values:

As mentioned earlier, the fact that eri silk allows the worms to complete their natural lifecycle sets it apart as a non-violent silk.

The principles of Ahimsa (non-violence) and environmental consciousness are intrinsic to its production.

Additionally, the manual rearing of silkworms provides employment and livelihood for rural and tribal communities, especially women artisans, supporting localized cottage industries.

Most production clusters follow fair trade guidelines as well.

The artisans are paid fair living wages and workers rights are protected at various stages – cocoon production, spinning, weaving, printing etc.

In contrast, commercial silk production tends to favor efficiency and maximizing profits over such ethical or environmental considerations.

So when you pay the premium price of eri silk, you also support the sustainable livelihood of artisans.

It connects you to the craft, heritage, and people behind the silk – and this is invaluable.

Market Rarity and Limited Supply

All the reasons described so far boil down to the fact that producing eri silk is a highly niche, low-yield affair which cannot be mass produced easily.

This scarcity greatly drives up its value.

There are only a handful of regions in India and around the world that have mastered eri silk production.

Within these regions as well, only some households possess the generational expertise to rear eri worms and weave eri silk sarees or fabrics.

For instance, Kokrajhar in Assam, India is one of the few places producing golden Muga eri silk.

By some estimates, there are only about 5000 Muga silk artisans in this area – and they produce just 50,000 Muga silk sarees per year between them.

When you compare that to the massive production volumes of mainstream silk in China, you realize why genuine eri silk is so hard to come by.

Price Comparison: Eri Silk vs Other Silks

To put the price difference into perspective:

• Raw eri silk yarn would cost $30-60 per kg
• Raw mulberry silk yarn costs $5-15 per kg

For fabric:

• Eri silk fabric starts around $50 per meter (handloom woven)
• Mulberry silk fabric can be as cheap as $8 per meter

Even the widely coveted tussar silk is cheaper compared to eri silk.

Of course, you can find eri silk sarees in the $500+ price range as well!

So clearly, eri silk commands a huge premium – but it is 2-5 times more expensive, not 10x pricier.

The extra price is justified considering…

• Limited production & availability
• Handmade artisanal quality
• Exceptional texture and durability
• Ethical and sustainable production

This makes eri silk more of an heirloom, quality-over-quantity fabric rather than for mass production or fast fashion.

Consumer Perceptions and Preferences

Speaking to various designers and consumers of eri silk, these were the key reasons they preferred eri over other silks:

• Superior warmth and softness: The wool-like texture makes it perfect for scarves and shawls in winter. “It feels like being wrapped in a soft hug,” gushed one buyer.
• Light and airy feel: Despite being warm, the fabric is surprisingly lightweight and breathable. Ideal for blouses and summer dresses.
• Understated elegance: The matte sheen and natural golden tone lend it an effortless elegance rather than flashy opulence.
• Durability: Buyers loved that their eri silk garments lasted for many years with proper care.
• Artisanal heritage: Some consumers valued their product being handmade slowly and mindfully, supporting local artisans.

Many perceive eri silk as being of higher quality and worth the investment over cheaper silk variants or synthetic fabrics.

Applications and Benefits

Eri silk may occupy an ultra-niche category, but it offers outstanding functional properties – making investment pieces that last a lifetime.

Clothing

• Scarves, shawls, stoles – exceptionally soft and warm
• Sarees, gowns – flowing drapes, opulent look
• Winter coats, jackets – lightweight insulation layer
• Dresses, blouses, shirts – breathable and comfortable for daily wear
• Suiting and formal wear – jackets, ties, gowns
• Intimate apparel and loungewear – luxurious feel

Home textiles

• Quilts, duvets, blankets – soft and breathable for cozy bedding
• Cushion covers, throws – adds a decorative ethnic touch
• Curtains, screens – beautiful draping

Beyond apparel

• Furnishings – lampshades, canopy covers
• Accessories – bags, clutches, scarves

Eri silk is also valued in medical fields for its hypoallergenic properties and smooth texture.

Luxury fashion designers like Chanel, Hermes, and McQueen love using eri silk for its artisanal appeal and exquisite properties.

As one bespoke designer told me:

“There is just something about eri silk that oozes elegance. It adds this touch of understated luxury – the way it flows, its matte yet luminous sheen, the colors – it just elevates any outfit. My clients keep coming back for more!”

So whether you invest in an eri silk saree as family heirloom or buy a scarf to snuggle up in, you’ll be buying into something special.

Why Eri Silk Warrants Its Price Tag

After understanding the intricacies of producing eri silk and what sets it apart, it becomes evident why it is priced at a premium.

To summarize:

• Scarce production: Niche product with very limited global supply
• Properties: Exceptional texture, durability, insulation, drape
• Artisanal production: Extensive manual processes rather than automation
• Ethical practices: Allowing silkworms to follow natural lifecycle; fair wages for workers
• Eco-friendly: Organic cultivation, non-violent harvesting method
• Heritage craft: Generational expertise in sericulture and hand weaving
• Functional benefits: All weather clothing, long-lasting, easy care

All these factors add up to make eri silk a luxury fabric in the true sense – hard to produce, unparalleled in quality, ethical and sustainable.

While cheaper mass-produced silk variants may appear to have a similar sheen, they cannot replicate the artisanal essence of eri silk.

Like a bespoke cashmere versus factory-made wool, there is a tangible difference in the final product – from its look and feel to production methods.

And this difference gets reflected in the price point.

I hope this piece gave you a deeper insight into valuing eri silk. Do check out my other articles on different silk types and sustainable fabrics!