Tussar Silk: A Comprehensive Beginner’s Guide to This Fabric

I’m thrilled to provide you with a complete guide to the unique and captivating fabric known as tussar silk.

As an avid textile enthusiast, I’ve explored various silk types over the years but tussar stands out for its rustic texture, subtle sheen, and cultural heritage.

In this article, we’ll cover everything from tussar’s origins, production process, cost analysis, and care instructions.

I’ll also highlight how it compares to other silks and outline key advantages it offers.

My goal is to equip you with a comprehensive understanding so you can fully appreciate this incredible fabric. Let’s dive in!

Introduction to Tussar Silk

Tussar silk, also spelled “tussah”, is valued for its rich, textured appearance and slightly dull sheen. It has a lovely honey-gold tone and feels less delicate than other silks.

Here are a few key facts about tussar silk:

• Made from silkworms that feed on oak and juniper leaves
• Has an uneven, grainy texture with a subdued luster
• Colors range from gold to dark brown and gray
• Used for saris, furnishings, and garments
• Cultural heritage links to India, China, and other Asian regions

Understanding what makes tussar special allows you to truly admire its rustic beauty and heritage story. Now let’s explore exactly where this fabric comes from.

The Origin of Tussar Silk

Tussar silk production originated in India, especially in the states of Jharkhand, West Bengal, and Odisha.

For centuries, local tribes domesticated tussar silkworms that fed on the abundant forests.

Other major tussar silk producing regions include:

• China: Sichuan and Hunan provinces
• Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam
• Japan: Produces a honey-gold tussar called “kosa silk”

The production of tussar silk holds deep cultural meaning in these communities. For example:

• Provides income for tribal villages in India
• Connects to spiritual rituals and tribal identity in India
• Associated with ancient Chinese emperors who valued its texture

Understanding the geographic roots and heritage behind tussar silk lets you appreciate how special this fabric truly is. Next, we’ll go through the production process step-by-step./

The Making of Tussar Silk

Tussar silk comes from the cocoons of tussar silkworms, which are unusual among domesticated silkworms. Here is a simplified overview of how tussar fabric is made:

1. Silkworms hatch and eat oak or juniper leaves. Tussar worms have adapted to live off these tree leaves.
2. Silk glands produce raw silk filament. Like other silkworms, tussars spin a silk cocoon.
3. Cocoons are boiled or exposed to steam. This kills the pupa inside and makes filament extraction easier.
4. Silk filaments are unwound and spun into yarn. Several filaments may be twisted together.
5. Yarn is woven on handlooms into tussar fabric. The texture results from uneven filaments.

Fun Facts About Tussar Silkworms

• Cannot survive domestication and need a natural environment
• Spin an oval or peanut-shaped cocoon unlike mulberry silkworms
• Have shorter silk filament than mulberry silk

Using traditional reeling and weaving methods also impacts the unique texture of tussar silk fabric. Now that you know the production origins, how do you know it’s real silk?

Authenticity: Is Tussar Silk Real Silk?

With various textile materials on the market, it helps to clarify what constitutes real silk. 

Simply put, real silk comes from the protein fiber spun by silkworms in their cocoon stage. This fiber is known for its natural sheen called sericin.

Tussar silk meets all the criteria of real silk, including:

• Spun from domesticated Bombyx mori silkworms
• Contains a dense protein fiber called fibroin
• Has the signature silk sheen, although it’s muted in tussar

So while the appearance differs from mulberry silk, tussar is considered real silk. But identifying authentic tussar fabric takes some skill.

Identifying Tussar Silk

To help you recognize real tussar silk, here are tips I’ve learned from experience:

• Check the texture – It should feel grainy and uneven, not totally smooth
• Rub it gently – You’ll feel a dry, papery sound unique to tussar
• Look for gold tones – Colors range from golden-brown to darker shades
• See if it’s matte – Tussar has a subtle sheen unlike other silks

I also recommend buying from reputable sellers who source ethical, fair-trade tussar silk. This ensures the quality and supports artisans.

Now let’s compare it to the most common silk.

Tussar Silk vs. Mulberry Silk

Mulberry silk comes from silkworms that eat white mulberry leaves and is known for its luminous sheen. Here’s an overview:

As you can see, tussar and mulberry silk have noticeable differences. Tussar’s ruggedness gives it unique charm. This leads us to our next topic – the texture itself.

The Texture of Tussar Silk: Soft or Stiff?

I would characterize tussar silk as a soft yet textured fabric. It has a pliable, papery feel with visible grains on the surface.

Tussar drapes beautifully but cannot compare to the absolute silkiness of mulberry.

What gives tussar silk its texture?

Several natural factors contribute to the stiffer, uneven texture:

• Shorter silk filaments
• Irregular filament shape
• Blending of wild and domesticated silk
• Traditional reeling and weaving

The texture makes tussar well-suited for:

• Saris and formal Indian garb
• Upholstery and curtains where durability matters
• Outer garments like jackets more than delicate blouses
• Accessories like scarves and ties

Now let’s explore why you might choose tussar over other textiles.

Advantages of Tussar Silk

Beyond its cultural story, tussar silk offers advantages that explain why it’s so prized:

• Durability – Its rugged texture resists snagging or tearing
• Comfort – Tussar silk breathes well, suitable for warm climates
• Ethical production – Supports tribal communities lacking opportunities
• Eco-friendly – Made from natural forests without intensive farming
• Stain resistance – The uneven surface camouflages stains

For these reasons, artisans around the world utilize tussar silk. Of course, producing this rare fabric does come at a price.

The Cost of Tussar Silk: Why Is It So Expensive?

Exceptional fabrics like tussar silk require intensive labor, driving costs up. But what specific factors make it expensive to produce?

• Limited supply – Cannot mass produce tussar worms who need natural settings
• Intensive labor – Hand harvesting, reeling, dyeing and weaving drive costs up
• No mechanism – No machines exist to automate the process
• Rarity – Much lower global production compared to mulberry silk
• Remote locations – Tussar-rearing regions lack infrastructure
• Demand exceeds supply – From haute couture designers and decorators

Granted, tussar costs a fraction of wild silk varieties, but far exceeds mulberry silk. Ultimately the price reflects fair wages for indigenous artisans.

For consumers, the extra expense pays dividends through the fabric’s unmatched longevity and heritage-preserving story. Next let’s go over care instructions.

Caring for Tussar Silk

Caring gently for tussar silk ensures its unique texture and vibrancy endure for generations. Here are my top care tips:

Washing Tussar Silk

• Hand wash or dry clean only
• Use cold water and mild soap
• Gently squeeze suds through
• Roll in towel to remove moisture
• Lay flat to dry away from direct sunlight

Storing Tussar Silk

• Avoid direct light which can fade colors
• Prevent excess moisture and humidity
• Fold loosely rather than hanging on wire hangers
• Place fabric rolls vertically rather than stacking flat

Repairing Snags

• Work loose threads back into fabric slowly using tweezers
• Avoid pulling or cutting them which could unravel more
• For stubborn snags, consult a specialty textile restorer

As with any fine fabric, be sure to handle tussar silk garments with care and respect.

What are some ways to incorporate tussar silk in my home decor?

Great question! Since tussar silk has an earthy texture, I recommend using it for throw pillows, curtains, table runners, or wall hangings.

The fabric’s durability makes it ideal for high-traffic areas. Go for terracotta, gold, or grayish tones to complement most color palettes.

I also suggest pairing it with natural materials like jute, linen, or bamboo for an organic look.

Where can I buy traditional tussar silk saris online?

Online boutiques like Anavila and Janavi India offer gorgeous, ethical tussar silk saris with classic designs and vibrant dyes.

The handwoven textiles support artisans in rural villages.

For ornate styles, check out Royal Sarees or Craftsvilla. Building relationships directly with weavers through Etsy also ensures artisans earn fair wages.

What’s the best way to clean a tussar silk garment?

Stick to dry cleaning or hand washing with cold water and a gentle soap. I recommend Heritage Park Laundry Detergent (link to Amazon).

Agitate gently, roll in a towel to remove moisture, and lay flat on a clean surface to dry.

This prevents damaging the texture. Iron inside out on low heat if needed. And don’t wash too often – spot clean when possible!

Is tussar silk good for making blankets?

Excellent question! Yes, tussar silk makes wonderfully cozy yet breathable blankets ideal for warmer climates. The fabric has a soft, papery feel that is smooth against skin.

Tussar also resists body oils better than other silks due to its uneven texture. I suggest a mid-weight tussar for blankets so they provide warmth without getting too hot.

And as a bonus, the organic dyes often used on tussar silk have soothing, therapeutic properties for restful sleep.

What types of dyes are usually used on tussar silk?

Most tussar silk uses natural dyes from plant sources that impart gorgeous earthy hues. 

Common examples include walnut shells, marigold flowers, madder root, indigo, lac insect resin, and colorful mineral salts.

Using traditional techniques passed down for generations, artisans hand-dye small batches of tussar fabric.

This results in beautiful, subtle variations that give each garment a one-of-a-kind quality.

Conclusions

I hope this guide offered a comprehensive overview of tussar silk’s unique properties, production methods, and care instructions.

Exploring tussar connects us to rich cultural traditions centered around silk cultivation for centuries.

Beyond upholding textile heritage, tussar also offers practical benefits like durability, comfort, and ethical production.

While costs stay relatively high, the investment in an heirloom-quality fabric pays dividends over time.

Whether you’re buying your first sari or looking to incorporate tussar upholstery accents, understanding what sets this fabric apart allows you to fully appreciate it.

Tussar silk’s rustic allure owes both to the ingenious silkworms who spin it and the artisans who transform it into a prized textile.