How to Identify Tussar Silk: Tips to Recognize Real Fabric

I’m excited to share my tips for identifying real tussar silk fabric. As someone who loves working with natural textiles, I know how important it is to recognize authentic materials. 

There’s nothing quite like the texture and drape of genuine tussar silk. This guide will equip you with practical skills to spot the real deal.

Why Identifying Tussar Silk Matters

Before we dive into the identification tips, let’s briefly go over why confirming real tussar silk is so crucial:

• Get what you pay for: Authentic tussar silk commands higher prices for good reason – its incredible strength and durability. Fake fabric sold as tussar silk robs you of value.
• Appreciate the uniqueness: Much of tussar silk’s beauty comes from its irregularities and natural color variations. Fakes with overly uniform textures miss the point.
• Honor the production process: Producing tussar silk involves intricate steps and ethical practices to cultivate silkworms. Identifying real silk respects that care.
• Enjoy special properties: The coarseness and uneven feel serve functional purposes like better drapability. Synthetics don’t replicate those qualities.

In short, verifying tussar silk allows you to appreciate the exceptional properties of this incredible fabric.

Keep reading to discover foolproof methods for telling real from fake tussar silk.

If you’re curious whether tussar silk is considered real, my guide has the answers.

Distinct Texture Sets Tussar Silk Apart

The most immediate way to start assessing tussar silk authenticity is by touching the fabric. The texture is decidedly uneven, slightly coarse, and heavier than other silks.

Run your fingers over the material – you should feel natural ridges and slubs unlike the uniform smoothness of synthetic satin.

Tussar silk’s distinctive texture stems from…

• Irregular-shaped fiber diameters up to 12 microns thick
• Shorter filament lengths than domesticated silkworm cocoons
• Less degumming than other silks to retain more sericin binder
• Minimal twisting during production for an uneven, nubby feel

In contrast, fake tussar silk often feels too slick and consistent. As you touch real tussar silk, expect to find…

• Subtle coarse areas interspersed with smooth patches
• A “dry” and matte quality despite a visible sheen
• A slightly textured grip rather than a slippery surface

Running fabric between your thumb and fingers helps amplify these tactile qualities. Concentrate on differences across the fabric too. Authentic tussar silk varies.

Tussar Silk Has a Distinctive Raw Color

Visually inspecting the hue provides more clues to identify real tussar silk. You’ll immediately notice the rich golden-brown color, resembling a warm honey tone.

This distinctive shade results naturally from…

• The reddish-brown tussar silkworms’ cocoon color
• Minimal dyeing or bleaching during production
• Fiber properties that absorb specific light wavelengths

Lift the fabric to catch the light. Real tussar silk glows with reddish undertones. You should also notice color variations – a hallmark of the untreated, raw silk threads.

By contrast, fake tussar silk typically looks too evenly colored with a flatter finish. Authentic tussar silk appears iridescent despite a matte texture.

The color seems to shift subtly as you tilt the textile.

Tussar Silk Fabric Is Extremely Hardy

Now let’s move onto assessing tussar silk’s durability and strength – two more identifying traits.

Thanks to…

• Compactly crossed fibroin protein chains
• Additional sericin binder between filaments
• Shorter fibers that distribute force evenly

…tussar silk is exceptionally hardy and resilient.

To test strength, gently stretch a swatch of fabric between your hands. Real tussar silk should have a bit of “give” yet feel firmly woven.

Now rub the material vigorously or try making a small tear – the silk will be quite resistant to friction and tearing.

These durability indicators confirm that tussar silk lives up to its reputation for being more rugged than other luxury silks.

Lighter-weight silk fabrics would easily shear or tear under the same stress.

Key Differences From Mulberry, Muga and Eri Silks

To further hone your tussar silk identification skills, it helps to contrast it with other fine silks. Here is a quick comparison table:

As you can see, tussar silk differs noticeably from other luxury silks:

• Less refined texture than domesticated mulberry silk
• Brighter golden tone compared to the darker muga silk
• Heavier and more textured than extremely fine eri silk

Noticing these comparative differences will prevent you from confusing tussar silk with other materials. Now let’s get into the hands-on identification tips…

Comparing tussar silk with mulberry silk highlighted some interesting differences.

Use Touch Tests to Confirm Authenticity

The following tactile techniques help verify real vs fake tussar silk:

Texture rub test

• Rub fabric vigorously between fingers
• Real tussar silk maintains integrity; synthetics may pill or tear

Stretch test

• Gently pull lengthwise and widthwise
• Tussar silk will have slight stretch before firming up

Burn test

• Carefully ignite corner threads and extinguish
• Real silk chars; synthetics melt or emit chemical smells

Wet fabric test

• Dampen a hidden spot; silk roughens when wet
• Synthetics feel smooth and slippery when wet

As you use these touch tests, keep noticing the fabric’s coarseness, dry grip, uneven slubs and durability. Real tussar silk will pass all these assessments with flying colors.

Visually Inspect for Authentic Markers

Along with feeling tussar silk, use your eyes to spot check authenticity:

• Inspect overall golden-brown hue for reddish tones
• Check for slight color variations across the fabric
• Look for horizontal ribs from the handloom weave
• Seek out irregularities like slubs and fiber clusters

Tussar’s organic origins mean no two bolts look identical. Subtle hallmarks like horizontal striations and thicker yarn intersections confirm the fabric hasn’t been overly processed.

Synthetic imitations look too uniform without these authentic tussar markers. So keep your eyes peeled for the natural color shifts and fabric inconsistencies.

Tussar Silk Weight Impacts Draping

Another key identification factor is understanding tussar silk’s weight and resulting drape. As a medium-weight fabric, tussar silk strikes an ideal balance between…

• Durability from tighter weaves
• Drapeability from added heft

The fabric is lighter than heavy brocades but heavier than flimsy chiffons. This lends tussar silk that perfect drape to elegantly hug contours.

If the fabric seems too sheer and lightweight or overly stiff, you likely have an imitation. Proper tussar silk will feel substantial with a nice flow and ripple.

Watch Out for These Common Counterfeits

Unfortunately, inauthentic fabrics get peddled as real tussar silk far too often. Which synthetic imposters should you watch out for?

• Rayon – Slick with too much sheen, overly smooth
• Bamboo viscose – Frequently mislabeled, excessively soft
• Polyester – Lightweight, very slippery and shiny
• Blended fabrics – Uniform texture and color are giveaways

Rayon and viscose especially aim to mimic silk’s appearance. But they can’t replicate the natural irregularities or medium weight.

And polyester’s high luster is the antithesis of matte tussar silk.

Follow Care Instructions to Prolong Life

Caring properly for treasured tussar silk textiles helps preserve the integrity and extends usefulness. Here are my top care tips:

• Hand wash gently in cold water using mild soap
• Roll in towels to absorb moisture; avoid wringing
• Lay flat to dry to maintain the fabric shape
• Steam lightly on reverse side to remove wrinkles
• Dry clean only when necessary using reputable cleaners

You can also soften scratchy new tussar silk without harming it:

• Soak in hair conditioner diluted with water
• Use fabric softener made for delicates
• Put in dryer briefly with clean tennis balls

Avoid overly aggressive efforts to soften tussar silk. This risks damaging the durable fabric. Gentle methods help retain the silk’s special properties.

What’s the best way to test tussar silk thread or fabric trims?

For tussar silk trims, focus on stretchiness, strength, and burn testing. Gently tug lengthwise on thread or ribbon to check for integrity and flexibility.

Then try lightly singing the end of the trim – real silk will ball up without totally melting.

The “burn test” works well on smaller silk pieces to verify authenticity through smell and charring behaviors.

Can you identify tussar silk through sound?

Interesting question! Yes, the sound of crumpling tussar silk can indicate authenticity. The nubby, textured fabric makes light papery rustling noises when crumpled.

Synthetics and smooth silks sound more metallic and plastic-like. Try scrunching a few inches of fabric in your hand to listen for tussar’s distinctive organic crunchy sound.

Does real tussar silk have a distinctive scent?

In its raw state, tussar silk emits a slightly unusual fermented aroma from the natural sericin binder. Degummed and finished tussar silk has very little scent – just a clean neutral smell. 

Counterfeit tussar silk sometimes smells strongly of chemicals. So take note of any unnatural odors which could betray inauthentic dyes and finishes.

Subtle earthy notes suit real tussar silk best.

Confidently Identify Authentic Tussar Silk

We’ve covered a lot of ground on recognizing real tussar silk fabric. Let’s quickly recap the top identification tips:

• Touch test for coarse, uneven texture
• Inspect golden-brown color variations
• Assess durability with strength and friction tests
• Compare to mulberry, muga and eri silk attributes
• Check for horizontal ribs and slub markers
• Notice weight and drape – not too light or heavy
• Beware of rayon, viscose and polyester knockoffs

Equipped with this knowledge, you can now enter stores with the skills to separate pure tussar silk from sly counterfeits.

Savor the satisfaction of sourcing and owning this incredible artisanal fabric.

I hope these practical authentication tips help you uncover the beauty and versatility of genuine tussar silk! Let me know if you have any other identification questions.