Eri silk, also known as “peace silk,” is rapidly growing in popularity due to its unique sustainable and ethical production methods.
As consumers become more conscious of the environmental and social impact of their purchases, eri silk offers an excellent natural fabric option.
In this article, I’ll give you an in-depth look at what exactly eri silk is, how it’s made, its key benefits, where it’s produced, and how it compares to other types of silk on the market.
You’ll learn why eri silk is considered the most humane and eco-friendly type of silk fabric.
What is Eri Silk?
Eri silk comes from the domesticated eri silkworm, which feeds on castor leaves rather than mulberry leaves.
The eri silkworm, also known as Attacus Ricini, is raised in India, China, Japan and Thailand.
This is a more ethical, non-violent production process compared to conventional silk farming which boils silkworms alive in their cocoons to obtain silk threads.
Some Key Facts About Eri Silk:
- Eri silk is also known as Endi, Errandi, and Ahimsa silk
- The eri silkworm originated in India, likely in the northeastern state of Assam
- Eri silk has been produced in Assam for hundreds of years as a cottage industry
- The silk is naturally golden-brown, white, or brick-red in color
The Unique Characteristics of Eri Silk
Eri silk has a thicker, more rigid texture compared to the fine, soft threads of mulberry silk. It has a matte appearance rather than a shiny surface.
The fabric made from eri silk resembles cotton or wool more than regular silk.
- Eri silk is breathable, absorbent, and insulating
- It is durable and resistant to wrinkles or stains
- Eri silk can feel slightly coarse or rough to touch
- Garments hold shape well over time
You may be wondering if eri silk is less desirable than conventional silk because of its rougher texture.
However, the natural look and feel of eri silk is prized by many fashion and interior designers. It adds beautiful texture and drape to clothing and furnishings.
But consumers are often willing to pay a premium for its ethical sourcing and environmental benefits.
The Eri Silk Production Process
1. Cultivating Castor Plants
The silkworms feed solely on the green leaves of castor plants. Farmers must grow enough castor plants to feed the eri silkworms through their various growing stages.
2. Silkworm Life Stages
The eri silkworm goes through four stages of life:
- Egg
- Larva
- Pupa
- Moth
In the larval phase, the caterpillars voraciously eat castor leaves to fuel their growth and spinning of silk cocoons.
3. Spinning Cocoons
When ready to enter the pupal phase, the caterpillars begin spinning protective silk cocoons around themselves.
This is when eri silk threads are produced. The cocoon stage lasts for 9-13 days.
4. Emerging as Moths
At the end of the cocoon phase, the silkworm naturally emerges from its cocoon as a moth by secreting an enzyme that softens one end of the cocoon.
This allows the adult moth to escape without breaking the silk threads.
5. Harvesting Eri Silk Threads
The intact cocoons are boiled or soaked in water to loosen the tightly woven filaments. The silk threads are then unwound by hand and spun into yarn.
This harvesting method preserves the continuity of the silk fibers, producing eri silk yarn that is exceptionally durable and resilient.
In contrast, most conventional silk production kills silkworms by boiling their cocoons before they can emerge as moths. This allows easier yarn extraction but breaks the silk filaments.
The Ethical and Sustainable Benefits of Eri Silk
Beyond its appealing texture and durability, eri silk offers important ethical and environmental advantages:
- Provides income for small-scale family farms and rural communities
- Allows silkworms to live full natural lifecycles
- Avoids harmful chemicals used in commercial sericulture
- Relies on rain-fed organic castor plants, avoiding irrigation
- Uses less fuel and electricity than mulberry silk production
- Produces biodegradable fabric free of synthetic dyes
For all these reasons, eri silk is praised as the most ecologically sustainable and humane type of commercial silk fabric.
Major Eri Silk Producing Regions
While eri silk originated in Assam, India, it’s now produced on a small scale in several countries:
- India – Assam, Meghalaya, Manipur, Bihar, West Bengal
- Thailand
- China – Hainan Province
- Japan
Assam remains the world’s leading producer, generating an estimated 98% of global eri silk output. Sericulture is a vital industry in the rural economy of Northeast India.
Eri Silk in Fashion and Textiles
Eri silk offers an eye-catching texture for clothing, accessories, and home furnishings:
- Saris – traditional Indian drapes
- Scarves and shawls
- Quilts and blankets
- Upholstery fabric
- Apparel – dresses, blouses, jackets
- Ties, purses, wallets
Its absorbent properties even make eri silk suitable for face masks, underwear, and bedding too.
Eri silk is growing popular among sustainable fashion brands like Purple Label, Fabric Frontline, and Ahimsa Silk.
Consumers appreciate that their purchases support fair wage artisans and ethical farming.
Eri Silk vs Other Types of Silk
How exactly does eri silk compare to conventional mulberry, tussar, and muga silks on the market today? Here’s a detailed breakdown:
Eri Silk vs Mulberry Silk
- Mulberry silk is finer, softer, and more lustrous
- Eri silk has a courser hand-feel and matte appearance
- Mulberry silk comes from silkworms fed mulberry leaves
- Commercial mulberry production often kills silkworms in their cocoons
- Both types of silk are extremely durable and resilient
Eri Silk vs Tussar Silk
- Tussar silk also allows silkworms to emerge naturally from cocoons
- However, tussar worms rely on trees and are susceptible to pesticides
- Tussar silk shares a similar texture and absorbency as eri silk
- Tussar silk production is not well-regulated for sustainability
Eri Silk vs Muga Silk
- Muga silk has an attractive golden hue, while eri silk is darker
- Both types of silk are produced in Assam
- Muga silk worms feed on aromatic som and soalu leaves
- Muga silk production also avoids killing silkworms
Overall, eri silk offers comparable beauty and durability to other types of wild silk, with greater control over ethical practices.
This makes it an exceptional choice for eco-conscious consumers.
Is eri silk hypoallergenic?
Eri silk is hypoallergenic, meaning it’s less likely to cause allergic reactions than other fabrics. The natural eri silk fibers contain no irritating chemical residues.
This makes eri silk bedding and clothing suitable for those with sensitive skin.
As with any new fabric, it’s wise to first test a small eri silk sample against your skin before purchasing large items.
Can you machine wash eri silk?
It’s best to wash eri silk garments and fabrics by hand or using a gentle cycle. Machine washing risks damaging the fibers and decreasing the lifespan of eri silk items.
To clean eri silk, use a mild soap or detergent formulated for delicates and cold water. Avoid bleach or fabric softener, allow to air dry, and iron on low heat if needed after washing.
I swear by Heritage Park Laundry Detergent (link to Amazon) for all my eri silk garments. It’s gentle, effective, and leaves the silk feeling wonderfully smooth and looking vibrant.
With proper care, eri silk will remain beautiful for many years.
Does eri silk wrinkle easily?
One of the advantages of eri silk is that it’s resistant to wrinkles compared to other silks. The stiffer, more textured fibers of eri silk hold their shape well and don’t become overly wrinkled.
Of course, some wrinkling is unavoidable over the course of wearing and washing.
A quick press with an iron on a low setting is all that’s needed to smooth out minor creases and wrinkles in eri silk garments or fabric yardage. It’s much easier care than fussier fabrics!
What kinds of dyes are used on eri silk?
Eri silk production prioritizes environmental sustainability, so only natural, non-toxic dyes are used to color the silk threads and fabric.
Common natural dyes used include indigo, turmeric, onion skin, marigold flowers, madder root, lac insect resin, and various tree barks.
No harsh chemical dyes or bleach is ever used. This ensures the entire production process remains ecologically friendly.
Is eri silk good for cold weather climates?
Yes, eri silk has excellent insulating properties that make it perfect for keeping warm in chilly weather. The porous, breathable fabric traps air close the skin.
Eri silk shawls, scarves, blankets, and winter coats provide superior warmth despite the light, comfortable weight.
That’s why eri silk is a popular cold weather textile in mountainous silk producing regions of India and China.
Does eri silk pill like wool over time?
Minimal pilling is a advantage of eri silk fabric compared to wool, cotton, linen and other natural textiles.
The long silk strands and tightly woven construction create a smooth, durable surface resistant to developing fuzzy pills over years of wear and washing.
With proper care, eri silk garments and furnishings maintain their sleek, beautiful appearance for decades rather than pilling up.
Conclusions
I hope this guide has enlightened you on the unique virtues of eri silk, from its production process centered around the eri silkworms’ natural lifecycle to its sustainable farming practices.
Eri silk offers a renewable, biodegradable fabric that avoids the environmental pitfalls of conventional textile manufacturing.
By supporting eri silk makers, consumers also uplift rural communities in developing regions like Northeast India and promote humane treatment of silkworms.
Next time you shop for a silk item, consider choosing one made of 100% peace/ahimsa/eri silk. Your purchase can make a meaningful social and ecological impact.