Can You Take in a Silk Dress? Tips for Perfect Alterations

I absolutely love wearing silk dresses. The way the fabric drapes and flows is just gorgeous. However, I often find that silk dresses don’t fit me perfectly off the rack.

As much as I adore silk, altering this delicate material makes me nervous. But with some careful planning and the right techniques, taking in a silk dress can be done successfully.

In this article, I’ll share everything I’ve learned about assessing if silk dress alterations make sense, choosing an experienced tailor, and using the proper methods for adjusting seams, hems, and more.

My goal is to provide plenty of examples and easy-to-follow recommendations so you can alter your silk dress with confidence.

Assessing If Silk Dress Alterations Are Feasible

Before taking scissors or needle to your silk dress, consider these factors:

• Condition of the silk – Frayed, worn, or otherwise damaged silk may not be suitable for alterations.
• Complexity of the design – Intricate beading or embroidery makes alterations trickier.
• Presence of patterns – Matching checks or plaids perfectly when taking in seams takes skill.
• Amount of fabric available – Is there enough extra material to let out the dress if needed?

I also highly recommend consulting a professional tailor before attempting DIY alterations at home. A skilled tailor can advise if the dress construction allows for adjustments.

Here are a few examples of when silk dress alterations may not make sense:

• A stained, ripped, or faded delicate silk charmeuse dress. The integrity of the fabric is already compromised.
• An evening gown with an intricate beaded bodice. Taking in the side seams risks damaging the beaded embellishments.
• A silk dress with a bold graphic print. The pattern and placement make it hard to perfectly match up seams.

In these cases, the risks likely outweigh the benefits of alterations. You’re often better off purchasing a silk dress that fits well from the start.

Choosing an Experienced Silk Dress Tailor

If you decide to move forward with adjustments, finding the right tailor is key. Look for:

• Strong recommendations from friends or reviews for quality silk alterations.
• Experience working with silks and delicate fabrics like chiffon, charmeuse, and crepe.
• Knowledge of proper draping techniques to maintain the way silk gracefully falls.
• Precision and attention to detail – alterations should be seamless and invisible.
• Options for hand-sewing parts of the dress for best results.

Ideally, meet with the tailor in-person and bring the silk dress so they can inspect it prior to alterations. Some good questions to ask:

• Have you altered this type of silk fabric before?
• What construction challenges do you foresee?
• What is your step-by-step process?

This allows the tailor to explain their approach and set clear expectations.

Preparing Your Silk Dress for Alterations

Before the tailor gets to work, I recommend:

• Cleaning the dress properly – remove any body oils, perfumes, or debris that could negatively impact the silk during steaming and sewing.
• Clearly communicating the areas to be altered – mark with pins or removable stitching.
• Asking if the current hem can be let down to allow fabric to work with for new seams or darts.

Proper preparation helps prevent oversights and improves the alteration outcome.

Hand-Sewing vs. Machine-Sewing Silk

Tailors have two main methods for altering silk dresses:

Hand-Sewing

• Pro: Allows for more control, precision, and visibility when inserting stitches.
• Con: Much more time-intensive and costly.

Machine-Sewing

• Pro: Faster and costs less than hand-sewing.
• Con: Risks puckering delicate silk if not done properly.

Most tailors recommend hand-sewing structural elements like seams and darts while machine-sewing long straight stitches like new hems.

This balanced approach helps control costs while ensuring quality and care.

See a comparison:

Step-by-Step: How to Take in a Silk Dress

This is my personal DIY process, but I recommend having a professional tailor complete the alterations for best results:

Supplies Needed

• Silk dress
• Silk thread
• Hand-sewing needles
• Seam ripper
• Silk pins
• Tailor’s chalk

Taking in Side Seams

1. Carefully remove current stitches with seam ripper.
2. Re-pin the dress with the new side seams pinned evenly to the desired size.
3. Use tailor’s chalk to mark the new stitch line.
4. Hand sew running stitch down the newly marked line; be sure to catch only a few threads with each pass.
5. Once the seam is sewn, gently steam press the seam allowance open rather than flat.

Adjusting Darts

1. Remove existing darts by seam ripping.
2. Re-pin darts in new position required to achieve the fit desired.
3. Hand sew darts using tiny stitches only picking up a few threads.
4. Lightly steam press darts flat, using a pressing cloth if needed to avoid damaging the silk.

Maintaining Integrity of Silk Fabric

• Use extra fine silk pins.
• Handle the silk gently and minimize pulling or tugging the fabric.
• Use a warm iron and press cloth to avoid water marks or shine.
• Check stitch tension often to be sure it is not too tight or loose.

Making a Silk Dress Bigger

If you need to let out or add width to a silk dress, the tailor will assess how much existing fabric is available:

• Side seams – Can they be let out further? Baste first to test.
• Hem – Is the hem deep enough to drop to add length?
• Gussets – Small diamond-shaped inserts can be added to seams.
• Fabric inserts – New material can be matched & added but this is tricky.

Make sure any fabric used blends seamlessly with the original in terms of weight, sheen, drape, and pattern.

Hemming Silk Dresses

To keep hems looking crisp, here are a few methods to consider:

• Hand-rolled hem – Tiny folds secured with tiny hand stitches. Time intensive but invisible.
• Blind hem stitch – Nearly invisible catching only a thread or two of fabric.
• Hemming tape – Fusible tape fuses fabric but can add stiffness.

General tips:

• Determine appropriate length based on the dress style and your height.
• Check that hem is level all around.
• Use silk thread that matches hem color.

Avoid obvious hem stitches by knotting thread inside the dress rather than on the outside.

I learned that hemming a silk dress requires a delicate touch but can be done.

Troubleshooting Tricky Alterations

Even experienced tailors can run into issues altering silk:

Don’t hesitate to speak up during fittings if something does not look right – a good tailor will fix any problems at no charge.

Caring for Your Altered Silk Dress

Once your dress had been successfully taken in, be sure to care for it properly:

• Follow the recommended care instructions from the manufacturer
• Dry clean only using a reputable cleaner
• Store the dress in a breathable garment bag
• Steam or professionally press periodically
• Avoid direct heat or light which can damage delicate silk

With some diligence and TLC, your perfectly altered silk dress will maintain its beauty and last for many wears.

What kind of stitch should I use when taking in the sides of my silk dress?

When altering the side seams of a silk dress, I highly recommend using a hand-sewn blind slip stitch.

This involves catching only 1-2 threads of the fabric with each pass of the needle, allowing the stitching to practically disappear.

Machine stitching, back stitches, or running stitches tend to be more visible and may pucker delicate silks.

Keep the stitches small, neat, and evenly spaced for the best look. Be sure to use silk thread that matches closely.

Can I use fabric glue when hemming a silk dress?

While hot hem tape does work to seal a new hem, I don’t advise using liquid fabric glue. The adhesive can easily seep through silk, leaving visible staining on the outside of the dress.

It also adds rigidity and stiffness that fights the natural soft drape of silk. For best results, use a hand-sewn blind hem stitch, which allows the fabric to move naturally.

Or, try a narrow fusible hem tape if you want the ease of glue with more precision. Test any adhesive on a silk scrap first!

How can I temporarily alter a silk dress for an event without permanently changing it?

Rather than clipping and sewing a silk dress you need to wear soon, consider using temporary alterations.

For taking in side seams, baste stitch along the sides where you want the new seam to lie. Pull the bobbin threads gently to cinch the dress, then securely tie ends.

You can hide knots inside the dress. For hems, secure small binder clips inside to fold up excess length.

And use double-sided fashion tape to secure gaping necklines or pinned darts. Just be sure to test tapes and clips on a swatch first to avoid snags or stains!

These tricks allow you to customize the fit for an evening without permanent changes.

It’s important to know how to manage creasing in silk wedding dresses to keep them looking perfect.

Conclusion: Alter With Care

I hope these tips give you the confidence to successfully alter your silk dresses for an ideal custom fit.

While the fabric calls for special care, the reward of flawlessly flowing silk is well worth the extra effort.

Remember to enlist an experienced tailor if needed and care for your dress properly after alterations are complete.

With some patience and finesse, you can adapt even the most delicate silk dress just for you.